And so to Prague for work but with a couple of chances to get some local scran into my face hole. Prague is very beautiful if a little standoffish (like your mum) in the off season. I did enjoy walking the empty cobbled streets in the evenings pretending I was one of Smiley’s spies, hands deep in my coat pockets, collar turned up to conceal my rugged features. But I couldn’t decide if I was tracking someone or if I was being trailed myself. This meant I did a lot of hovering and looked more like a homeless than a Tier 1 Asset.
There are a gazillion touristy looking restaurants, all with English menus and invariably offering the terrifying-sounding dish of Pork Knee. Pork knee sounds like a lot of things (an unpopular native American; the site of a famous battle in Vietnam; a tell tale symptom that a Jew is not eating kosher) but it does not sound like a delicious entrée. However, the pictures look intriguing and it is roasted so I might brave myself up and try it next time I’m in Czechland. Being mid-week, most places weren’t that busy and frankly a stag-do from Kidderminster might have livened the place up, but it meant service was snappy and attentive. Night 1 I tried rabbit at Malostranská Restaurace which was a cool looking venue but dead inside, with a wide screen TV showing the Czech version of Midsomer Murders (almost as riveting but without the edginess) therefore the ambiance was nil. The rabbit was fine and the bready dumplings were good for soaking up the gravy. (Kč638, about £17)
Night 2 was more successful as I ventured out to one of Prague’s famous beer halls, U Medvidku, where Hitler used to make loads of rousing speeches. No wait, that’s Munich. Prague has famous beer halls? Prague has famous beer halls apparently. Well, I went to one and ordered some more game, boar this time which arrived as suspiciously quickly as the rabbit had the night before. Nice enough and v garlicky spinach so I was won over. You can still smoke in some establishments in Prague so here was the atmos that I had been looking for. (Kč204, about £6 and much better value than the night before).
Both meals were accompanied by a tall, cool Budwar. Czech beer is delicious, but there are repercussions which I imagine impact stag-do after stag-do. The jaundiced hoteliers of Prague sadistically taunt their oafish guests by modestly apportioning lavatory paper in the facilities and bask in the panic that echoes through their halls.
Tel: +420 257 531 418
U Medvidku Beer Hall and Restaurant
Na Perstyne 7
Tel: +420 224 211 916