Gay Hussar

2014 has kicked off with an epic bout of removals, decorating and not a few tears as Del Monte Towers was relocated. Therefore, chances to dine out for your reading pleasure have been few and far between. However, I’ve decided to wall up our problem room and give up on the bathroom so now I can get back on the job and wash in puddles: Nature’s bath/lavatory/sink.

The Gay Hussar (http://gayhussar.co.uk/) is a storied Hungarian restaurant in the middle of Soho with a Dickensian interior and walls covered in caricature portraits of people I don’t recognise. At least the guys in Leicester Square make some sort of effort to make their drawings look recognisable, though why anyone would want an exaggerated cartoon of Freddie Mercury is beyond me. Even at 6.30 it was getting quite busy and while I waited for Headissimo, I enjoyed a tall cool Budvar which is Czech, not Hungarian. I would launch into a tirade about how restaurants offering one country’s cuisine should offer beer from that country, but they do have an impressive Hungarian wine list as well as dessert wines and digestifs, with amusingly pithy descriptions which make me hate myself and everyone else.

The service was good and the waiter patiently explained the Hungarian to us. Headissimo opted for the Borjúpörkölt Galuskával (veal goulash/Klingon for “if you don’t stop scratching it won’t scab over”) and I went for the Özpörkölt (venison goulash/Least cute one from One Direction). The food was excellent with special mention for the Tarhonya (egg-based pasta) which was very tasty. I swapped out the red cabbage for spinach as red cabbage is vile and the hallmark of a nation in decline. Accompanied by a carafe of excellent Hungarian Merlot we had no complaints. I did ponder slurping down Unicum, but Headissimo said he wasn’t in the mood and had to get back home early. £70 for two including booze and 12.5% service charge, a bit much for what it was, but I’ve paid more for worse (dam you internet scammers. Dam you. On an unrelated note, I have a batch of tic-tacs dyed blue which you can have for only £85 + postage and packing).

Apparently the Gay Hussar, like their regimental namesakes, is under threat of closure due to fabulousness hard economic times. There is a movement afoot to save it: http://www.theguardian.com/commentisfree/2013/dec/02/gay-hussar-goulash-co-operative-save-soho-restaurant. Presumably the best way to do that is to patronise it.

MAGYARORSZÁG!

Borjúpörkölt Galuskával. Or Goulash. Much easier in English.

Borjúpörkölt Galuskával. Or Goulash. Much easier in English. Much less blurred in real life.

The Venison Goulash, untainted by the horrible awfulness that is red cabbage? I mean, what is the point unless you need to be sick. I can accept hermetically sealed portions of red cabbage in first aid kits as an emetic.

The Venison Goulash, untainted by the horrible awfulness that is red cabbage? I mean, what is the point unless you need to be sick. I can accept hermetically sealed portions of red cabbage in first aid kits as an emetic.

Wild Cherry Soup is something you can't unsee. Thanks Amsterdam.

Wild Cherry Soup is something you can’t unsee. Thanks Amsterdam.

Unicum is "not for the faint hearted." Darn tootin'. Cherry found that out during the Soup portion of her show.

Unicum is “not for the faint hearted.” Darn tootin’! Cherry found that out during the Soup portion of her show.

Wines from other countries. Like ashes in your mouth. If you want to insult the proprietor order the Chilean Sauvignon Blanc.

Wines from other countries. Like ashes in your mouth. If you want to insult the proprietor order the Chilean Sauvignon Blanc.

Good stuff.

Good stuff.

How many political discussions have raged in this venue? Obviously, none right now. It was pretty lonesome in there for a while.

How many political discussions have raged in this venue? Obviously, none right now. It was pretty lonesome in there for a while.

A shameless attempt to appeal to the Soho demographic.

A shameless attempt to appeal to the Soho demographic.

the big board hungary

Gay Hussar
2 Greek Street
Soho
London
W1D 4NB
Tel: 0207 437 0973
http://gayhussar.co.uk/

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