Quality Mexican food is hard to find in London. Most of the swill you come across is inedible, glutinous pabulum with all the charm of school lunches. The options always include a lake of refried beans and dry orange rice and the good stuff is either over cooked or under-flavoured and frequently both.
The missus has been hankering for a Wahaca (http://www.wahaca.co.uk/) for some time now and so we hit up the one on Chandos Place near Covent Garden. She says she was in a play with one of the Wahaca financiers back in the day and while she’s not allowed within 100 metres of his domicile, she’s still allowed to patronise his restaurant. Sucker.
You can’t reserve and we’ve been put off by long waiting times before, but we were both able to tolerate the 20 minute wait next to the bar as we enjoyed a virgin mojito. Dry January inexorably continues.
The atmos and lighting are good – it makes such a difference to be in a vibrant yet intimate place where you can conspiratorially natter or eavesdrop on the table next to you. The menu refers to “street food” once again. I think I’m making my peace with this terminology (cf: Pho and Yalla Yalla) but it niggles still. The important thing is that the food is awesome. The missus and I shared a Wahaca Selection. The tacos were juicy and the Huitlacoche Quesadilla was moreish. The highlight for me was the Black Bean Tostadas, tangy, fresh coriander, red onion in the salsa … I’ll be back Black Bean Tostadas. I won’t forget you. When I close my eyes I see your face. I can still smell you on me.
£22.50 for two people, no booze, no dessert. The dessert menu looked intriguing and I’d like to have a go at their tequilas too. The service was excellent and chirpy too, elevating the entire experience.
¡MÉXICO!

As if proof were needed that all kitchen staff are land-based pirates. Look at those swarthy brigands just itching to get their paws on a cutlass.
Wahaca
66 Chandos Place
London
WC2N 4HG
Tel: 0207 240 1883
http://www.wahaca.co.uk/